Establishing a Studio for Your New Nikon D7100
Nikon D7100 Review
Using the new Nikon D7100 digital camera, you would expect to be able to turn you to just about anything. This versatile and flexible camera is made to succeed in every area of photography. So, once it is as they are, many new owners is going to be rushing to consider portraits and still-life images in studio conditions. obviously, if you can, you should always make an effort to shoot in natural light - particularly if you are shooting portraits. If that isn't likely, the pop up flash can usually give you the necessary fill-in, or you will use you flash gun, carefully placed and fired remotely. Generally in most circumstances these tools will assist you to get a decent result. However a time can come when you decide you need additional control and also at that time you will want a studio set up.
Nikon D7100 Price
If you are establishing your studio in your own home, the ideal scenario would be to have a room specifically put away to your photography. It will have plenty of space, a high ceiling and become no less than 5 meters long. Paint the walls one that doesn't reflect too much - black is perfect, but if you must share the room, then gray could be OK. Cover the windows with blackout material to ensure the sunshine can't enter and also cover the doors to stop further contamination. Ideally you only want the light that is below your control to become effecting your images. You'll have to have a good supply of electrical sockets.
Having closed out all external light sources, you are able to choose what lighting you need to have within your studio. Lighting falls into two categories - continuous or strobe. Continuous even offers two options, either tungsten or fluorescent. Tungsten is very popular for portraiture as it gives good kinds of skin. It really is naturally a 'warm' light, in the light and temperature (this is sometimes a problem, if someone makes your subject sit under them for a long time). You would want to use tungstens should you be shooting video.
Fluorescent lights use a more sterile white light using a blueish hue. They are generally used for stock shots ad still-live photography, because it's felt that the colors will be more accurate. Obviously, it is up to the photographer to select that she prefers. White balance, within the D7100's settings should be able to rectify most light settings, but, when you are in charge of your lighting, it might be easier to set the lights so the subject seems as you want to view it. Relying on in-camera correctives is simply another think to make an effort to remember and eventually you'll be cursing your memory and catching up in Photoshop.
The one gift of continuous lighting is that you can actually observe how the topic will be in the picture in real-time. Which means you receive the sunlight right and will then confidently address other variables like content and composition. Using the strobe, you are sometimes uncertain when the flash fired or not. In lots of ways continuous lights is a lot easier, and that i would recommend that starting with this. However, when you really need to photograph something or someone and give the impression of movement, or freeze them doing his thing, you will have to use strobe lighting.
Although strobes are more difficult to setup, they provide the photographer little more flexibility. The effectiveness of the flash could be increased or reduced to suit the photographer's needs. Which means that the photographer can design his lighting round his shutter speed requirement. Obviously, if the subject is moving and you also don't want blur, you may need a fairly fast shutter speed. Once mastered, strobe lights are a powerful way to get the images you need. However, simply because they work on a burst, they generally take time to recharge.
If you start with a few lights, the simplest way to set them up is with the soft box in front and the spot at the back. The soft box emits a softer more even light that's easier to meter against. The soft box needs to be 6 feet out of the subject, near the camera. The other light ought to be no less than 3 feet from the back drop in order that it gives a level background. I might advise taking advantage of barn doors for that back light, so the light doesn't spread where it's not wanted. always set your trigger up to the front light and make certain that both lights fire concurrently. Most lighting systems have slaves included in them today.
I usually begin a shoot on a standard 1/125 at f8 with an ISO set at 200. Thus giving me enough flexibility to change things around gradually easily have to. Most studio lenses operate comfortably at f8 and the shutter speed will catch most fluid movement. If you discover the lighting a little flat, slowly move the soft box out wide to obtain some more definition and shadow, but often be conscious of more shadow can be extremely unflattering, specifically if the subject posseses an angular face or large nose. I begin by obtaining the standard shots done - the entire length, half-length after which move in tighter for head and shoulders or portrait. Once you want to try some thing interesting your model could have relaxed you'll also find become more certain about the apparatus and you abilities.